Are you absolutely SURE it is the pigtail wires and not from another cause? Rarely are the pigtails connecting the coil in the cone long enough to contact the frame or the cone itself. One thing to do is test the speaker with a different source, a friend's stereo perhaps, or simply swap speakers in your system to see if the distortion moves with the speaker to rule out your system as the cause. If the distortion follows the speaker, then the rest of your system is likely not the cause. If you are absolutely SURE it is the speaker and there is NO other defect such as a rip in the cone, you can try simple clear nailpolish. It is nonconductive when dry and it will provide a stiffener much like hair spray does on hair. Paint on the nailpolish and bend the wire away from the cone while it dries, so the dry polish will hold the wire in a different position. You only need a little. Too much and it will become rock hard. Your object is to stiffen the wire so it holds itself in a different position and responds to vibration differently than it does now. This is a LAST RESORT solution. Make SURE there is no other defect in the speaker or the system. Just so you know... Most times I have heard distortion in a system it was because the speaker was overdriven so the cone went into the stops at the limit of travel. The speaker power rating should be twice the amplifier power rating to avoid overdriving the speaker and running the coil into the stops. The 2nd most frequent cause was overdriving the amplifier so the signal is clipped when it hits the maximum power the final stage can handle. The 3rd most frequent is overdriving the line input of the amplifier with something like the earphone jack on a CD or MP3 player. Line inputs (also called AUX inputs) are standardized to accept a relatively low level signal which is not enough to drive a pair of earbuds. If you turn the volume control on the CD or MP3 player too high, you distort the signal right at the line input which then is amplified just like everything else.

One of the most popular performance upgrades for your car today is to install a custom air intake. The thing most don't realize is whether you are trying to make your car faster or just save gas this is one of the easiest modifications available.

There are two types of custom air intakes:

You would choose your type of intake depending on the tempature where you live. If it's hot outside then you would want to use the cold air intake, and if it's cold outside you would use the short ram intake. The reason for this is you want cold air going in to the engine, the colder the air the better the performance, to a point. If you live in freezing tempature then that's a little to cold and you would want to use the short ram system.With the cold air intake the idea is to draw in air as far away from the motor as possible to get the coldest air possible. With the short ram intake you want to draw your air from near the engine where it's a little warmer.

So with cooler air we get better performance, but there is another benifit! When car manufactures build a car they want it to be as quite as possible, and how they do this is reduce the air flow and run it through lengths of tubing. So by removing the OEM air box and intake tube and replacing it with a K&N or Spectre intake tube and cone filter you make it easier for your car to breathe.

I know I said this is for everyone and you are thinking I don't care about performance I want gas mileage! Well, if the engine performs better and doesn't have to work as hard, in turn it will use less gas to power itself.

AND, on top of all this the different types of intake tubes and filter they have available giver your engine a personalized custom look that anyone can appreciate. For detailed intsructions on how to remove the stock intake and filter box and to purchase the custom intake visit my website at http://www.compactuner.com